Category Archives: Alpine Rock

A Big Day on the Grand Teton

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About two months ago Carl pitched me the idea of going for the Grand Teton via the Upper Exum Ridge, a route about as classic as they get. Immediately I was interested; the Grand stood high on my wish list as one of those must-do-in-your-lifetime peaks, as it does for many. For weeks we researched and discussed the plan, ultimately deciding on the last weekend in July as the best window for our trip. Keep reading…

Crestone Needle: Ellingwood Arete Direct Start

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On our descent from Longs‘ summit a month ago, Tom and I laid down loose plans for our next trip to another alpine wonderland.  It didn‘t take long for the somewhat infamous Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle to surface in the conversation, this is a route I‘ve literally been drooling over since I first read about it four years ago.  It seems if you‘re into 14ers and alpine climbing, the Arete is one of those must-do routes. Tom headed down to Westcliffe Wednesday and booked a hotel and a Jeep rental as I had class until later in the evening.  After I got out I high tailed it on down to the Westcliffe Inn and let myself into the room to find a snoozing Tom and Aaron (he had plans to hit the Crestones the next day as well and conveniently bummed a hotel and ride to the upper TH). Keep reading…

A Great Day on an Alpine Classic: Kieners Route

Tom Pierce and I got out Saturday and climbed what I would consider to be the most fun route I‘ve been on to date.  I‘ve been thinking about Kieners for a few years now and the opportunity came up for me this past March to try a winter ascent (pretty ambitious for my first time up the route).  Tom, a friend of his, and I made our way up to the base of Lambslide and elected to save it for another day due to a large cornice overhanging the Notch, as well as a rather slow approach time.  Although somewhat disappointed, I think we all felt the right decision was made in the end. Keep reading…

Finishing the 14ers: The Crestones and Humboldt

T.j., Janet, Stu and I left the Mountain View Inn at 3:00am on Wednesday August 8. We drove our rental Jeep back up the South Colony Lakes road, arriving at the upper TH at 4:30am. The events of the previous day dictated that Stu and I would be heading for Crestone Peak first while T.j. and Janet headed for Humboldt. Stu and I would then traverse over to the Needle, drop down to South Colony Lakes and ascend Humboldt, meeting them on the summit for my finisher. We left a radio with T.j. and Janet and explained the route to them, the four of us said our goodbyes at the TH. Stu and I quickly ascended back to the Humboldt/Crestone Peak saddle and made our way to Bear‘s Playground. Keep reading…